Reviews 4

Holy Smoke at Parky's

by Scott Hutcheson

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on November 2, 2006.

Indiana is known for a few great contributions to the world of food,
many of which have been covered in this column—tenderloins,
sugar cream pie, and the like. I’ve also been known to complain a bit about a few culinary items that the Hoosier State seems to be missing. On the very top of that list is great barbecue.

It has always mystified me how a state that produces so much pork could have so few places that really know how to barbecue. North and South Carolina seem to be the nation’s pork barbecue capital, at least in terms of the pulled variety. A few other places like Kansas City, Memphis, and St. Louis have developed their own style of ribs. Texas, of course, reigns supreme in the world of barbecue brisket.

Indiana, on the other hand, has just not figured out the barbecue game. Although there are two or three places across the state that get it pretty close to right in my book, there are many more places that do a mediocre job or worse. A few months ago I picked up on some rumblings about town that someone had purchased the old Garfield’s building in Lebanon and was planning to open a barbecue restaurant.

At first, I took the rumor with a big grain of salt. Lebanon residents have all heard tales of new restaurants and retail businesses that never seem to materialize. Then the sign appeared, “Yes it’s true, it’s barbecue!” It was like Moses himself had gone back up to that mountain and on this trip the burning bush was a smoldering hickory tree and he had brought back a sign this time instead of a couple of stone tablets. With the rumor confirmed, I was still skeptical. “Sure, but it probably won’t be any good,” I thought. Last week Parky’s Smokehouse opened its doors for us all to decide for ourselves. After visiting, my assessment is . . . Holy Smoke!

Julie and Gary Parks, the masterminds behind Parky’s have managed to pull of something truly remarkable—a one-of-a-kind, original concept restaurant. I’m not talking about something that is unique compared to other Lebanon restaurants. That goes without saying. I mean that this place is unlike any restaurant anywhere in the world. It seems that the Parks’ have woven their personalities and experiences into every aspect of this place and Lebanon is fortunate they have decided to share it with all of us.

I’ve had the opportunity to visit Parky’s twice in the last week, both times for take-out. It was a first-rate experience from the moment I walked into the door and was greeted by the friendly hostess, to the service I got from Mark, the bartender, who also takes the take-out orders, to the food once I got it home. Was everything flawless? No. No restaurant is in its first few weeks of operation. But those are minor kinks that get worked out as the staff finds its rhythm.

The menu (available here) at Parky’s is varied, especially for a barbecue restaurant. Traditional barbecue includes pulled chicken, pulled pork, sliced turkey, smoked sausage, and baby back ribs. These great meats appear in many forms—dinners, some ingenious sandwiches, salads, and even pizza. Parky’s also has a fine selection of steaks ranging in price from $16.99 to $21.99. These come with rolls, salad, and choice of potato. The most creative item from this part of the menu is the Coffee Crusted Ribeye, something I have on my list to try on a return trip. Sandwiches and burgers round out the entrée choices and range from $5.99 to $8.29, and include a choice of sides.

The Pecan Crusted Walleye ($18.99), Applewood Caesar Salad ($6.99), and Fried Dill Pickle appetizer ($3.99) are a few other creative menu items that have me pretty curious. Desserts are housemade and include some delightful choices like Chocolate Key Lime Pie in a Glass ($5.49) and Comfort Bread Pudding with Praline Sauce ($5.79). Parky’s also has a kid’s (Little Piggy) menu with eight selections ranging in price from $3.99 to $7.29. So far, I’ve tried the pulled chicken, the sliced turkey, and two bites of the bread pudding. Parky’s happened to open their doors at a time when I’m watching calories very closely. The lean choices of the chicken and turkey were delicious, satisfyingly smoky, and kept me within my calorie restrictions. The bread pudding was rich and decadent like dessert should be and I had to summon all of my willpower to limit myself to just two bites.

Lebanon is fortunate to have Parky’s in the community. I’m already a regular and look forward to a long relationship. I urge you to give them a try. You’ll become a regular too, I’m sure.

Read more by Scott Hutcheson at www.hungryhoosier.com .

If You Go

Parky’s is located at 2479 N. Lebanon Street. They can be reached by phone at 765-482-1 OINK (1646). Parky’s is open daily by 11:00 a.m.